Well here were are back in Vila after 2 years. Not much has changed,
including the new hotel that was being built then - still not opened.
We arrived here on Saturday morning (15th), 6am after a few day's travel from
New Caledonia. We cleared out of Noumea on Tuesday morning after a busy week. We
didn't do any sightseeing, but recovered, shopped and fixed things. Once again
we were surprised by prices, but when you need food, you just have to have it.
We did find some nice surprises though, Wedgwood meat pies for about $2.50, so
we got a few of them to store in the bottom of the new fridge.
Our fridge was at least 13 years old, and struggling to keep things cold,
consuming many amp-hours from the batteries. It would run for about 5 minutes
on, then 5 minutes off. A friend on another boat in Noumea had to replace his
fridge and was very happy with the result, so we bit the bullet and replaced
ours. Physically it is half the size, with twice the efficiency, amazing!
On the way to New Cal we discovered that the batteries weren't holding their
charge. In Noumea on shore power we were able to equalise them and seemingly
they came good, but once under load, they weren't up to it. We considered buying
new ones in Noumea, but with 60% import duty, the prices were prohibitive, so we
delayed the purchase until we got to Vila. While a bit more expensive than
Australia, they were reasonable price for the quality.
After refuelling with tax-free diesel @ 88XFP or about AUD1.32/l, we headed
southeast to Boise Hbr on the southern tip of New Cal. From there we had to
traverse the Havannah Passage which can be a difficult trip. We consulted the
Sailing Directions and tide tables to arrive at a crossing time around 1pm. We
left at 12 noon, and with an outgoing tide we soon had an extra 2kts pushing us
along. As we entered the narrowest part, we were doing 8.2kt over the ground.
Where this water entered the open sea, a wall of waves 1 to 2 metres formed.
Thus we had a 10 minute trip as though in a washing machine, with water over the
deck. We were quite comfortable inside the wheel house.
Once through there we set our course to pass through the Loyalty Islands.
However there was no wind at all. Reluctantly the engine came on and we chugged
along at 4 kt for the next 30 hours. Finally at 5 pm on Thursday night a breeze
started from the SSE, so we were sailing at 3.5 kt. AS the breeze built, we were
sailing at 6 - 6.5 kt quite comfortably. Of course after 24 hours of nice
breeze, the sea began to build so we were getting 1 - 2m waves on the starboard
quarter. This caused a fair amount of rolling and caused the autopilot to
misbehave on occasion.
Our original intention was to go to Dillons Bay in Erromango, SE of Efate. When
we visited there before, we met some missionaries who are helping the local
villagers. We thought we could give them some clothes, books etc. They spend
part of the year in Dillons Bay, other times in the US so I sent an email asking
if they were home. I didn't get a reply, and when I asked another Ham about them
he told me that they had moved to the other side of Erromango. We then decided
that we would go directly to Port Vila.
Our electronic navigation program continually updates our distance to go, time
to go and ETA. While we were travelling at 6kt, we would arrive in Vila around
3am. We chose to slow down a bit so we could arrive at daybreak. The chart
program told us that there was a Flashing white light on Pango Pt, the entrance
to Vila. As we approached, nothing was seen - even as we rounded the point, no
light! We had the C-Map and radar to confirm where the hard bits were. We then
had to line up the leads to take us in over the shallow ground. C-Map said two
red lights - we found them and the course was 078. We anchored near the
Quarantine buoy along with 4 other yachts and waited for Quarantine and Customs
to come.
Yachting World is a marvellous company that hires moorings in Pt Vila. They came
and told us to follow them to a mooring and that Quarantine would come later,
Customs and Immigration could wait til Monday. Quarantine was very helpful, and
with sensible regulations (unlike New Cal) ie Ship's stored of meat, fruit and
vegetables can be kept as long as they stay on board. We gave the officer some
vegetables which he really didn't want to take. The fee was VT3000 plus VT1500
for overtime on the weekend.
That night we went ashore to the Waterfront Bar and Grill, to celebrate Paul's
birthday. A great meal of T-bone and ribs was thoroughly enjoyed, along with a
bottle of wine given to us by Pete in Newcastle. Thanks Pete!
Monday was spent dealing with Customs, Immigration and Telecom (to get a local
Ham licence YJ0AHB). I also had to locate some batteries. The usual transport in Vila
is by mini-bus, usually a 6 seater. You stand on the side of the road and hail
the first mini-bus ("B" in front of the number plate); they come along every few
seconds, and tell the driver where you want to go. If he is going anywhere
remotely in the vicinity, and he always is, you hop in. There are no meters; a
long trip is double, but two blocks or ten is the same cost. He then proceeds to
deliver the other passengers so the route may be a bit circuitous, but for VT100
(AUD$1.35) its an interesting way to get some sightseeing in. These buses seem
to run non-stop. They range from battered panel work with tatty interiors to
bright shiny models with chrome hubcaps with spinners on the hub caps. In my
quest for a new impeller and the batteries I passed one place 4 times.
Tuesday was spent going back to Customs to get a tax exemption form for the new
batteries, and paying for them. An unsuccessful trip to Telecom for the Ham
licence - I can get it tomorrow. Island Time--we love the friendly relaxed way
everything works here. Yesterday when the Pacific Star (cruise ship ) came in,
for one day, the passengers had to wear identity tags around their necks. No
point in stamping 1000 or more passports for one day. Those who wanted a stamp
had to go to Customs to get it done.
Peter and Donna on 'Two up', our friends from Blackwattle Bay will arrive
tomorrow from Dillons Bay. Its Donna's birthday on the 31st, and that's why we
are here! Our old? (longtime) friends Larry and Alison from 'Spring Fever' will
be joining us at the end of the month to spend a couple of weeks cruising with
us. We are looking forward to having them aboard.